The newly-renovated Grand Palais currently houses works from the Centre Pompidou. | PHOTO: © CHARLY BROYEZ/CHATILLON ARCHITECTES
RADAR
10 Things to Do in Paris
How to explore the City of Light like an insider.
By Vawn Himmelsbach
PARIS IS A WORLD-CLASS CITY of enduring beauty. But there’s much more to the City of Light than the famous landmarks that help define it — the Louvre, Eiffel Tower and Notre-Dame Cathedral. Paris’s famous tourist spots are popular for a reason, but to truly experience the city in an optimum way, try exploring a few of the city’s 20 unique arrondissements (or districts) like a local. Here are 10 ways to do just that:
Search for one-of-a-kind treasures at Galerie Vivienne. | PHOTO: MARC BERTRAND/PARIS JE T’AIME
(From top) Maison Mulot’s Saint Honoré pastry; French painter Suzanne Valadon’s recreated atelier-apartment at the Musée de Montmarte. | PHOTOS: (FROM TOP) COURTESY OF MAISON MULOT; JEAN-PIERRE DELAGARDE/MUSÉE DE MONTMARTE
Pâtisserie paradise
There’s no shortage of artisanal pastry shops in Paris. But the historic neighbourhood of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, located on the Left Bank of the Seine River near the Latin Quarter, has more than its fair share of pâtisseries to satisfy your sweet tooth. Renowned pastry chef Arnaud Larher has a shop here — try one of his signature pastries, such as the chocolate and pecan Toulouse-Lautrec or the praline mille-feuille. Nearby is Maison Mulot, known for its version of the Paris Brest, a ring of pâte à choux filled with hazelnut crème.
Overlooked museums
Paris is home to some of the most famous museums in the world — notably, Musée d’Orsay, Centre Pompidou and the Louvre. But there are plenty of smaller, often-overlooked museums, some of which are free. In the Marais neighbourhood, the free Musée Carnavalet is dedicated to the city’s history, while in the Montmartre district, the Musée de Montmartre is housed in a 17th-century manor surrounded by three gardens dedicated to the impressionist painter Auguste Renoir.
Café culture
An unofficial pastime in Paris is people-watching — particularly from the vantage point of a street-side terrasse while sipping a café crème (the French version of a cappuccino) or a glass of wine. Café de Flore in Saint-Germain-des-Prés is perhaps one of the most famous, though it tends to get crowded. Instead, head to the Left Bank neighbourhood of Montparnasse with its historic cafés and brasseries, such as La Closerie des Lilas, a terrasse surrounded by lilacs that was once writer Ernest Hemingway’s neighbourhood café, or La Coupole, an art deco gem.
Shop ‘til you drop
Paris is home to the famous shopping avenue of Champs Élysées, legendary department stores (a.k.a. grands magasins) and luxury couture in the Triangle d’Or. But for one-of-a-kind Parisian treasures, head to one of the city’s historic covered passages. Galerie Vivienne, for example, opened in 1826, and retains its allure with restored mosaic floors and a steel-and-glass roof. Here, you can sip a glass of wine at LeGrand Filles & Fils before searching for handcrafted perfumes at Mad et Len or browsing the antiques at Galerie Etna.
Vintage finds
Even if you’re not into shopping, it’s worth a visit to the Marché aux Puces St-Ouen — considered the largest flea market in the world — for the spectacle alone. Located on the border of the city, just north of the 18th arrondissement, les Puces consists of 15 markets selling everything from vintage fashion to prints, paintings to home furnishings. Here is where remarkable finds can be made, whether it’s a gilded mirror, a gold pocket watch or a vintage Yves Saint Laurent gown. The Paul Bert Serpette market has a good selection of vintage clothes, while Biron is known for quality antiques and artworks.
Canal Saint-Martin winds its way through the northeastern districts of Paris. | PHOTO: COURTESY OF PARIS JE T’AIME
Food markets
This is a city of gastronomic distinction, where a meal can be an exquisite celebration of flavour, artistry and tradition. While you may want to book a table at one of Paris’s 123 Michelin-starred restaurants, it’s also worth exploring local food markets and staying for lunch (as the locals do). Marché Couvert des Enfants Rouges in Haut-Marais, a less-touristy neighbourhood in the north part of the city, is a covered market that began more than 400 years ago — back when France was still ruled by Louis XIII! Stop by the popular Chez Alain Miam Miam stall for a sandwich — some say it’s the best sandwich in all of Paris.
A grand reopening
Having undergone a four-year, €466M renovation, the historic Grand Palais exhibition hall and museum complex has reopened its doors. Aside from housing works from the Centre Pompidou (closed until 2030 for its own renovation), it also hosts year-round cultural events, art fairs and fashion shows. Inside the Palais, you’ll find Le Grand Café, a new brasserie that features one of the loveliest terrasses in Paris, and serves classic brasserie fare such as vol-au-vent (a light, puffy pastry) and steak with peppercorn sauce. Also in the Palais is Réséda Café, by Michelin-starred chef Thierry Marx, which serves up gourmet bites.
Paris after dark
Bar Joséphine (named after Josephine Baker) at Hôtel Lutetia offers craft cocktails under a domed ceiling with original frescoes. There’s also a speakeasy and cigar lounge that pays homage to the Left Bank’s love of jazz. Or splash out at a champagne bar such as Dilettantes Cave à Champagne or Cave Pétillance. If beer is more your thing, Paname Brewing Company is a microbrewery in the 19th arrondissement with a terrasse along the banks of the Canal de l’Ourcq, which is bursting with street art, graffiti and an authentic local vibe.
Stroll the Canal Saint-Martin
Is your romantic stroll along the Seine feeling a little crowded (and not very romantic)? The Seine isn’t the only waterway in Paris. Canal Saint Martin, a historic waterway that winds its way through the northeastern districts of Paris, is lined with quirky shops and quaint cafés, and feels a bit like Paris of the 19th century. Head to the nearby Marché Couvert Saint-Martin, a covered food market which has been operating since 1859, for the requisite baguette and cheese.
Stay in Parisian splendour
In Paris, your accommodations are a part of the experience, whether you stay in a palace hotel, private mansion or chateau. The Renaissance Paris Nobel Tour Eiffel Hotel — once the Parisian home of Swedish inventor Alfred Nobel, who went on to establish the Nobel Peace Prize — is a hidden urban retreat where you’ll be transported to the Paris of the 1870s. Now part of the Marriott brand, the boutique hotel consists of four historic buildings with a leafy outdoor terrasse. Indoors, the cozy salon offers sparkling champagne cocktails for breakfast and showcases emerging talent in music, food and the arts at Evenings at Renaissance events.
(From top) Bar Joséphine features a frescoed vaulted ceiling; the Renaissance Paris Nobel Tour Eiffel Hotel Magnolia Suite and its view of the hidden garden. | PHOTOS: COURTESY OF BAR JOSÉPHINE; COURTESY OF RENAISSANCE PARIS NOBEL TOUR EIFFEL HOTEL
Hidden Montmartre
Tourists may be drawn to the Eiffel Tower and the Louvre, but Montmartre invites visitors to discover a quieter, more intimate side of the city of love. From its cobbled streets to its lush vineyards and charming bistros, it’s easy to see why Montmartre has been the inspiration behind so much art and cinema. Set on the top of a small hill in the 18th arrondissement, Montmartre has a rich artistic past, as painters such as Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Pablo Picasso and Maurice Utrillo all lived and worked there. While Montmartre may be more commonly known as the home of Sacre Coeur, Place du Tertre and the Moulin Rouge, there are hidden gems to explore in every corner. Click on the hot spots below to discover new stops to add to your Paris itinerary.
By Emily Rivas | Illustrations by LeeAndra Cianci
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(From left) Maison Mulot’s Saint Honoré pastry; French painter Suzanne Valadon’s recreated atelier-apartment at the Musée de Montmarte. | PHOTOS: (FROM LEFT) COURTESY OF MAISON MULOT; JEAN-PIERRE DELAGARDE/MUSÉE DE MONTMARTE
Pâtisserie paradise
There’s no shortage of artisanal pastry shops in Paris. But the historic neighbourhood of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, located on the Left Bank of the Seine River near the Latin Quarter, has more than its fair share of pâtisseries to satisfy your sweet tooth. Renowned pastry chef Arnaud Larher has a shop here — try one of his signature pastries, such as the chocolate and pecan Toulouse-Lautrec or the praline mille-feuille. Nearby is Maison Mulot, known for its version of the Paris Brest, a ring of pâte à choux filled with hazelnut crème.
Overlooked museums
Paris is home to some of the most famous museums in the world — notably, Musée d’Orsay, Centre Pompidou and the Louvre. But there are plenty of smaller, often-overlooked museums, some of which are free. In the Marais neighbourhood, the free Musée Carnavalet is dedicated to the city’s history, while in the Montmartre district, the Musée de Montmartre is housed in a 17th-century manor surrounded by three gardens dedicated to the impressionist painter Auguste Renoir.
Café culture
An unofficial pastime in Paris is people-watching — particularly from the vantage point of a street-side terrasse while sipping a café crème (the French version of a cappuccino) or a glass of wine. Café de Flore in Saint-Germain-des-Prés is perhaps one of the most famous, though it tends to get crowded. Instead, head to the Left Bank neighbourhood of Montparnasse with its historic cafés and brasseries, such as La Closerie des Lilas, a terrasse surrounded by lilacs that was once writer Ernest Hemingway’s neighbourhood café, or La Coupole, an art deco gem.
Shop ‘til you drop
Paris is home to the famous shopping avenue of Champs Élysées, legendary department stores (a.k.a. grands magasins) and luxury couture in the Triangle d’Or. But for one-of-a-kind Parisian treasures, head to one of the city’s historic covered passages. Galerie Vivienne, for example, opened in 1826, and retains its allure with restored mosaic floors and a steel-and-glass roof. Here, you can sip a glass of wine at LeGrand Filles & Fils before searching for handcrafted perfumes at Mad et Len or browsing the antiques at Galerie Etna.
Vintage finds
Even if you’re not into shopping, it’s worth a visit to the Marché aux Puces St-Ouen — considered the largest flea market in the world — for the spectacle alone. Located on the border of the city, just north of the 18th arrondissement, les Puces consists of 15 markets selling everything from vintage fashion to prints, paintings to home furnishings. Here is where remarkable finds can be made, whether it’s a gilded mirror, a gold pocket watch or a vintage Yves Saint Laurent gown. The Paul Bert Serpette market has a good selection of vintage clothes, while Biron is known for quality antiques and artworks.
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(From left) Bar Joséphine features a frescoed vaulted ceiling; the Renaissance Paris Nobel Tour Eiffel Hotel Magnolia Suite and its view of the hidden garden. | PHOTOS: COURTESY OF BAR JOSÉPHINE; COURTESY OF RENAISSANCE PARIS NOBEL TOUR EIFFEL HOTEL
Food markets
This is a city of gastronomic distinction, where a meal can be an exquisite celebration of flavour, artistry and tradition. While you may want to book a table at one of Paris’s 123 Michelin-starred restaurants, it’s also worth exploring local food markets and staying for lunch (as the locals do). Marché Couvert des Enfants Rouges in Haut-Marais, a less-touristy neighbourhood in the north part of the city, is a covered market that began more than 400 years ago — back when France was still ruled by Louis XIII! Stop by the popular Chez Alain Miam Miam stall for a sandwich — some say it’s the best sandwich in all of Paris.
A grand reopening
Having undergone a four-year, €466 million renovation, the historic Grand Palais exhibition hall and museum complex has reopened its doors. Aside from housing works from the Centre Pompidou (closed until 2030 for its own renovation), it also hosts year-round cultural events, art fairs and fashion shows. Inside the Palais, you’ll find Le Grand Café, a new brasserie that features one of the loveliest terrasses in Paris, and serves classic brasserie fare such as vol-au-vent (a light, puffy pastry) and steak with peppercorn sauce. Also in the Palais is Réséda Café, by Michelin-starred chef Thierry Marx, which serves up gourmet bites.
Paris after dark
Bar Joséphine (named after Josephine Baker) at Hôtel Lutetia offers craft cocktails under a domed ceiling with original frescoes. There’s also a speakeasy and cigar lounge that pays homage to the Left Bank’s love of jazz. Or splash out at a champagne bar such as Dilettantes Cave à Champagne or Cave Pétillance. If beer is more your thing, Paname Brewing Company is a microbrewery in the 19th arrondissement with a terrasse along the banks of the Canal de l’Ourcq, which is bursting with street art, graffiti and an authentic local vibe.
Stroll the Canal Saint-Martin
Is your romantic stroll along the Seine feeling a little crowded (and not very romantic)? The Seine isn’t the only waterway in Paris. Canal Saint Martin, a historic waterway that winds its way through the northeastern districts of Paris, is lined with quirky shops and quaint cafés, and feels a bit like Paris of the 19th Century. Head to the nearby Marché Couvert Saint-Martin, a covered food market which has been operating since 1859, for the requisite baguette and cheese.
Stay in Parisian splendour
In Paris, your accommodations are a part of the experience, whether you stay in a palace hotel, private mansion or chateau. The Renaissance Paris Nobel Tour Eiffel Hotel — once the Parisian home of Swedish inventor Alfred Nobel, who went on to establish the Nobel Peace Prize — is a hidden urban retreat where you’ll be transported to the Paris of the 1870s. Now part of the Marriott brand, the boutique hotel consists of four historic buildings with a leafy outdoor terrasse. Indoors, the cozy salon offers sparkling champagne cocktails for breakfast and showcases emerging talent in music, food and the arts at Evenings at Renaissance events.