TRAVEL
Ireland Inspires
An Irish adventure is cráic for the whole clan.
By Carole Nelson Brown
In western Ireland’s County Clare, the dramatic Cliffs of Moher span approximately 14 kilometres. | BACKGROUND: BLACKBOXGUILD/ENVATO
AN ESTIMATED 4.5 MILLION CANADIANS, or 15 percent of the population, claim Irish ancestry. It’s not surprising, then, that many travel to Ireland to trace their roots. Whether lineage-hunting or not, some folks even bring extended family with them — and with good reason. The Emerald Isle is a destination that offers a delightful blend of history, adventure and relaxation, which means plenty to appeal to different generations and energy levels. The Republic of Ireland occupies about five-sixths of the island of Ireland and is composed of 26 counties. (The rest of the island are the six counties of Northern Ireland, which is part of the U.K.) The island itself — 480 kilometres long and 275 km wide — is roughly the same shape as and 1.2 times larger than New Brunswick. Canadians might not consider Ireland big, but the network of roadways doesn’t allow for the speed of travel they’re accustomed to back home, making the country feel expansive despite the small size. In Ireland, history isn’t confined to museums; it’s woven into the fabric of everyday life. Centuries of English occupation meant the Irish at times kept their culture alive through word of mouth. Rich storytelling is at the core of their art, music and literature through the ages as well as overheard down at the pub, which is a focal hub of society. And as hosts, the Irish are world-renowned for their hospitality. Now, set all of this against a backdrop of medieval castles, rolling green hills and rugged coastlines and you’ve got a wonderful land waiting to be explored. So, pack those clothing layers (Ireland can serve up all four seasons of weather in one day) and get set for a journey that slowly unfolds before you. Planning a family trip that keeps toddlers entertained, teens engaged, parents relaxed and grandparents comfortable can be challenging, but Ireland is made for it.
“In Ireland, history isn’t confined to museums; it’s woven into the fabric of everyday life.”
Trinity College Library, the largest library in Ireland, has more than six million printed volumes with extensive collections of journals, manuscripts, maps and music. | PHOTO: DAVID ILIFF/WIKIMEDIA COMMONS
DUBLIN: THE PERFECT STARTING POINT
Dublin, the capital, is a world-class city located on the east coast of the island, on the Irish Sea. The welcoming spirit, fuelled by the friendly people and the celebrated cráic (pronounced “crack”) — which means “lively conversation” or “a good time” — makes the city a magnet for visitors.
Start your adventure with some must-see stops. Head over to Trinity College to view the magnificent Book of Kells, an illuminated manuscript written in Latin and containing the four Gospels of the New Testament. Its survival is in itself a historical marvel and its artistic brilliance is a defining feature. Follow this up with a tour of Dublin Castle in City Centre, which houses the State Apartments, the Chapel Royal, a 13th-century tower and the remains of a Viking settlement. Want something fun for the kids? Include a visit to Phoenix Park’s Dublin Zoo — a 70-acre sanctuary where 400 animals across 100 species thrive in natural social settings and successful breeding programs. Then stop by the EPIC Irish Emigration Museum, which has interactive exhibits to engage visitors of all ages in learning hands-on about Ireland’s greatest export to the world — people. How about a lesson in traditional Irish music? Book a session at Waltons New School of Music in City Centre on how to play the bodhrán drum. Warning: may lead to spontaneous pub performances later. And, of course, you can’t leave Dublin without dropping by the Guinness Storehouse to try to master the legendary six-step ritual of pouring the perfect pint of creamy stout.
MULTI-GENERATIONAL TIP: Take a sightseeing bus tour for an excellent overview of the city without too much walking.
THE WEST: CLIFFS, MUSIC AND MYTHICAL LANDSCAPES
With the dramatic coastline of peninsulas, ports and islands, Ireland’s western edge is a major draw for tourists, thanks in part to the Wild Atlantic Way and its numerous attractions.
Go visit a working farm to delight the younger family members. They’ll get to meet sheepdogs and feed lambs and find out more about Irish rural traditions. One of the largest working farms in the country is the family-run Glen Keen Farm, a sheep operation spread across a commonage of 10,000 acres in County Mayo. Try your hand at herding sheep and making authentic Irish scones.
To the south is the city of Galway, known for street musicians, lively pubs and a relaxed artsy vibe. Teens will love the haunted walking tour of this historic city in County Galway, replete with ghost stories and gruesome tales. The older family members might prefer visiting Claddagh, the historic fishing village that inspired Ireland’s famous traditional ring representing love, loyalty and friendship. This charming coastal city makes a great base for exploring the west. Take a ferry to Inis Oirr, one of the three Aran Islands and the closest to the mainland. It’s small and flat enough to cycle around, but you can also take a horse-and-cart ride or hop on a bus tour. Though tiny, Inis Oirr packs a punch in terms of tourist sites — there are the ruins of a 10th-century church, a lighthouse, a shipwreck and plenty of pubs where the grownups in your family can relax with a pint. South of County Galway is County Clare. Here, you can stand at the world’s edge on the Cliffs of Moher. Reaching a maximum height of 214 metres near O’Brien’s Tower, these sea cliffs deliver some of Ireland’s most stunning coastal vistas. The wind will try to steal your hat, but the views will steal your heart. Heights not your thing? Go to the visitor centre’s interactive exhibits for a more grounded experience. Or catch a boat tour to admire the cliffs from sea level. Kids will enjoy nearby Aillwee Cave, with its underground tunnels, and the Burren Birds of Prey Centre, with its falconry displays. County Clare’s Bunratty Castle is for everyone to enjoy. A superbly restored 15th-century tower house with period furnishings, Bunratty is considered a national treasure with a rich historical legacy highlighted by exhibits on four floors. Located in Folk Park, it’s a re-creation of a 19th-century Irish village on 26 acres, with more than 30 buildings plus costumed interpreters depicting rural life in a bygone era. For the kids — and the kid in all of us — consider sleeping over in an actual castle. Some Irish castles offer stays that combine history and luxury, but there’s a wide range of accommodations to suit diverse budgets. One in the high-end category is the iconic five-star 16th-century Dromoland Castle in County Clare, set amid spectacular scenery on the shores of Lough Dromoland.
MULTI-GENERATIONAL TIP: Stay in a self-catering cottage near Galway, so the family can spread out and enjoy home-cooked meals.
(Left to right) Blarney Castle, a medieval stronghold in County Cork; kissing the Blarney Stone is done upside down and with assistance; The Poisonous Garden is a tiny plot situated behind the Blarney Castle battlements. | PHOTOS: DANIELE DI NOVI/iSTOCK; PETRA15/WIKIMEDIA COMMONS; COURTESY OF THE ALNWICK CASTLE GARDEN
“The Blarney Stone, which reputedly imparts ‘the gift of the gab’ when kissed, is embedded in the castle's battlements.”
THE SOUTHWEST: CASTLES, COUNTRYSIDE AND COASTAL VIEWS
Head south from Clare to County Kerry’s Ring of Kerry, a 179-kilometre circular route fringing the Iveragh Peninsula. Attractions abound here, notably, the scenic Gap of Dunloe and the 20-metre-high Torc Waterfall. You can drive the whole Ring in about four hours, but it really deserves days to explore. Off the Ring route are amenities galore to please everyone — surfing, cycling, horseback riding, hill climbing, golf and fishing. Energetic travellers should visit Killarney National Park, also in County Kerry, where you can go on a horse-drawn carriage ride or opt for cycling paths or walking trails, and then end the day with a boat tour on the Lakes of Killarney. Another castle stay awaits here in Kerry, at the relatively more affordable and family-friendly Castle Ballyseede. With its grand entrance, private gardens and woodland setting, this three-storey 16th-century stone building offers a lovely home base for exploring the area. South of Kerry is Cork, the country’s largest and southernmost county. Boasting dramatic mountains and a wild coastline, the Rebel County, as County Cork is known, is a popular destination. It’s home to Cork, Ireland’s second-largest city, which is recognized as the national culinary capital. The English Market — a historic landmark dating back to 1788 — is a vibrant hub of foodie activity. Step inside and immerse yourself in the lively atmosphere, where generations-spanning traditions are upheld by local purveyors of fresh produce, cheeses, cured meats and many other delicacies. In the countryside near Cork is the majestic Blarney Castle, a famous romantic partial ruin, whose grounds harken back to the 10th century, replete with mysterious wooded hollows, ancient rock formations and a gently flowing river. The Blarney Stone, which reputedly imparts “the gift of the gab” when kissed, is embedded in the castle’s battlements. It has been kissed by millions of visitors, including world leaders and Hollywood stars. And of possible interest to the adults in the group is the Poison Garden, whose plantings look like they’re straight out of a fairytale (“Look, but don’t touch!”). As you and your family head back to Dublin and then home, you may find that even with its historic settings and lush landscapes, it might just be the Irish people who leave the most lasting impression of all.
MULTI-GENERATIONAL TIP: Book a guided tour of the Ring of Kerry — let a local guide navigate the tricky, narrow road while you enjoy the views. AMA
Planning for Every Generation
Here are a few travel tips to make your Irish family adventure as smooth as possible.
Getting around Renting a car or hiring a driver for the day (even for small-group tours) makes everything more manageable, especially when travelling with older family members or young children, so you don’t have to rush to catch trains or worry about luggage.
Get everyone involved Grandpa wants to golf. The kids want to climb castle towers. You would like to enjoy a pint in peace. Remember to find a balance — mix high-energy activities (hiking, horseback riding, boat tours) with relaxing experiences (picnics, scenic drives, leisurely pub lunches).
Find family-friendly accommodations Ireland is chock-full of welcoming B&Bs, self-catering cottages and family-geared hotels. As you make your way back to Dublin, consider an overnight at the idyllic Killiane Castle Country House & Farm, in County Wexford in the southeast of Ireland. Killiane’s guest rooms are former stables meticulously converted into lovely modern lodgings.
Remember to pace yourself While Ireland is relatively small, winding country roads and numerous pause- for-photo stops mean travel can take longer than expected. Don’t try to cram too much into one day, or even one week. The trip should be about making memories, not checking off a list.
Travel with peace of mind Travel insurance, particularly on trips with older family members, can offer benefits like emergency medical coverage, trip cancellation/interruption protection and assistance services, ensuring a safer, more comfortable travel experience for everyone in the family.
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Blarney Castle, a medieval stronghold in County Cork; kissing the Blarney Stone is done upside down and with assistance; The Poisonous Garden is a tiny plot situated behind the Blarney Castle battlements. | PHOTOS: DANIELE DI NOVI/iSTOCK; PETRA15/WIKIMEDIA COMMONS; COURTESY OF THE ALNWICK CASTLE GARDEN