Raise the Roof

For Alex Leonard, indoor climbing is all about mental gymnastics. A veteran instructor with certification from the Climbing Wall Association (CWA), Leonard has spent the last 10 years instructing at the Toronto Pan Am Sports Centre and other facilities. This isn’t just about breaking a sweat while scaling walls, he says. It’s more complex, requiring a unique blend of athleticism and artistry. “The sport of climbing is a combination of things,” Leonard explains. “There is a problem-solving aspect to it, which I find to be much more stimulating than other forms of working out. There’s the thrill of a challenge and a great level of satisfaction that one gets from completing a difficult climb.”

Indoor climbing is categorized into three disciplines: bouldering, which involves short, rope-free routes over crash pads; top-roping, where a rope is pre-anchored at the top for maximum safety; and lead-climbing, an advanced method in which the climber clips their rope into safety points as they ascend.

With ascension, says Leonard, comes choreography. “The movements involved in climbing just feel good sometimes — a well-set route can make a climber feel like he or she is doing a dance.” This dance is currently being performed by more Canadians than ever before. Once a niche training activity for mountaineers, indoor climbing has moved into the mainstream, fueled by a desire for experiential fitness. In Alberta, there are 35 indoor climbing facilities. From high-tech bouldering hubs to traditional top-rope gyms, these spots offer a democratic environment where technique often triumphs over raw power. Whether you are navigating what is known as a problem or clipping into a lead line, the sport provides a full-body workout that scales to a range of ability levels. Leonard says the sport is more accessible than most realize. “Climbers come from diverse backgrounds based on gender, height and strength,” he says. “An advantage in a particular sport does not always translate into success while climbing. Anyone can do well if they dedicate themselves to improving their technique.” AMA